Fabric analysis methods and procedures?

Due to the structure of the fabric, the arrangement of the colored yarns, the raw materials and the number of the yarn, the density of the yarn, the twist and twist of the yarn, and the structure and finishing method of the yarn are different. The resulting fabric is therefore different in appearance.
In order to produce, innovate or counterfeit products, it is necessary to grasp the technical structure of the fabric and the technical conditions of the fabric. To this end, the fabric is carefully and carefully analyzed in order to obtain the correct analysis results and to provide information for the design, modification or counterfeiting of the fabric.
In order to obtain a more accurate analysis of the results, the items to be analyzed and their sequence before planning are analyzed. Be careful in the operation process, and save the swatch material as much as possible under the conditions of the analysis.
Fabric analysis is generally carried out in the following order.
One: When sampling and analyzing fabrics, the accuracy of the data is related to the location of the sample and the size of the sample. Therefore, there should be certain provisions for the sampling method. Due to the wide variety of fabrics and the large differences between them, the choice of samples in actual work should be determined according to the specific situation.
(1) After sampling the fabric, the fabric has a slight change in width and length due to the balance of warp and weft tension in the fabric. This change causes a difference in the density of the edges and middle of the fabric, as well as the ends of the fabric. In addition, during the dyeing and finishing process, the changes in the ends, the middle and the middle of the fabric are also different. In order to make the measured data accurate and representative, it is generally prescribed: when sampling from the whole fabric, the sample The distance to the edge of the fabric is not less than 5 cm, the distance from the ends is not less than 1.5-3 m on the cotton fabric; not less than 3 m on the wool fabric; and about 3.5-5 m on the silk fabric.
In addition, the sample should not have significant defects and strive to be in its original state to ensure the accuracy of the analysis results.
(2) Sampling size The sampling area should vary with the type of fabric and the structure of the fabric. Since the fabric analysis is a consumption test, the size of the sample should be reduced according to the spirit of saving and under the premise of ensuring the correctness of the analytical data. Simple tissue samples can be made smaller, typically 15 cm x 15 cm. The color fabric with a larger tissue circulation can take 20cm*20cm. Fabrics with large color circulation (such as bed sheets) should take at least one area occupied by the color yarn cycle. For large jacquard (such as quilt, carpet), because of the large number of warp and weft cycles, the general analysis part has a representative structure. Therefore, it is generally taken as 20 cm * 20 cm, or 25 cm * 25 cm. If the sample size is small, it can be analyzed as long as it is slightly larger than 5cm*5cm.
Two: When determining the positive and negative facing of the fabric for analysis, first determine the front and back of the fabric.
The front and back of the fabric are generally judged based on its appearance effect. Here are some common judgment methods.
1. The pattern on the front of the general fabric, the color is clearer and more beautiful than the reverse side.
2. The frontal pattern of the plant and color matching Embossed Fabric with a strip appearance must be clear and pleasing.
3. The ribs and embossed fabrics are compact and delicate on the front, with strips or pattern embossing, while the reverse side is rough and has long floating lines.
4. Fleece fabric: single-faced raised fabric with a plush side that is the front of the fabric. The double-faced plush fabric has a smooth fluff and a neat side.
5. Observe the fabric edge: if the cloth is smooth, the neat side is the front of the fabric.
6. Double-layer, multi-layer and multi-woven fabrics. If the warp and weft density of the front and back sides are different, it is generally preferred that the front side has a larger density or a front side material.
7. Leno fabric: The protruding side of the grain is clearly the front side of the fabric.
8. Towel fabric: The side with a high density of terry is the front.
Most fabrics have obvious differences between the front and the back, but there are also many fabrics whose front and back are very similar, and both sides can be applied. Therefore, it is not desirable to distinguish the front and back sides of such fabrics.
Three: Determine the warp and weft direction of the fabric After determining the front and back of the fabric, it is necessary to judge which direction is the warp yarn in the fabric, and which direction is the weft yarn. This is for the analysis of fabric density, warp and weft yarn number and fabric structure. , is a prerequisite.
The main basis for distinguishing the warp and weft of the fabric is as follows.
1. If the sample of the fabric to be analyzed is hem, the yarn parallel to the edge of the fabric is the warp yarn, and the yarn perpendicular to the edge of the fabric is the weft yarn.
2. The warp yarn is contained in the pulp, and the weft yarn is contained in the pulp.
3. The one with a high density of the general fabric is a warp yarn, and the one with a small density is a weft yarn.
4. For scarred fabrics, the direction of the scar is the warp direction of the fabric.
5. When one set of several yarns in the fabric is a strand, and the other set is a single yarn, then usually the strand is a warp yarn and the single yarn is a weft yarn.
6. If the yarn forming direction of the single yarn fabric is different, the Z twist yarn is the warp direction and the S twist yarn is the weft direction.
7. If the twist of the yarn into the yarn is different, the majority of the twist is the warp direction, and the twist is small.
8. If the warp and weft yarns of the fabric, the twist direction and the twist direction are not much different, the yarn is evenly dried, and the gloss is better.
9. Towel-like fabric, the yarn of the terry is a warp yarn, and the yarn without a loop is a weft yarn.
10. The strip fabric is usually in the warp direction.
11. If the fabric has a system of yarns with a number of different characteristics, this direction is the warp direction.
12. Leno fabric, the twisted yarn is warp yarn, and the twistless yarn is weft yarn.
13. In the interweaving of different raw materials, generally cotton interwoven fabrics, cotton is warp yarn; filament interlaced, silk is warp yarn; wool cotton interwoven, silk, cotton is warp yarn; natural silk and silk In the interlace, the natural silk is a warp yarn; in the interlaced natural silk and rayon, the natural yarn is a warp yarn.
Because the fabric is extremely versatile. Therefore, the requirements for the material and structure of the fabric are also various, so in the judgment, it is also determined according to the specific conditions of the fabric.

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